Choosing a men's duffle coat comes down to two decisions: length and lining. Gloverall makes four men's duffle coats — the Men's Original Monty Duffle Coat and the Men's Morris Duffle Coat in the classic full length, and the Men's Mid-Length Monty Duffle Coat and Men's Morris Mid-Length Duffle Coat in a shorter, city-friendly cut. The Montys keep the exterior plain and the lining out of sight; the Morris pair add a tartan lining that shows at the hood and cuffs when the coat moves. There is no quality tier between them — all four sit in the Heritage Collection, and every coat in it is made in England at our factory outside London. This guide covers what makes a proper duffle coat in the first place, then how to choose between the four.
What to look for in a men's duffle coat
Most coats sold as duffle coats aren't duffle coats at all. They're wool-blend toggle coats — lighter construction, thinner fabric, a hood that collapses when you need it most. Whatever you end up buying, these are the four things that separate a good duffle coat from a disappointing one.
Fabric
Boiled wool or Melton wool — the two dense, tightly constructed materials that define a properly made duffle coat. Both are naturally water-resistant and warm without being bulky. Gloverall uses both across its duffle range, in different styles and variants — each product page states the fabric for that coat. A product description that says only "wool blend" without further detail usually means a lighter, softer fabric that performs differently in the cold and ages differently over time.
Toggle quality
Buffalo horn or wooden toggles on rope or leather loops are the mark of a correctly made duffle coat. Plastic toggles on synthetic loops are a reliable indicator of how the rest of the coat is put together. The loop stitching is worth checking too — it's the first point of failure on a cheaper coat and the last thing that should fail on an expensive one.
Hood construction
A duffle coat hood should be wide, structured, and functional. The original military hood was designed to fit over a naval cap with gloves on — it needed to stay up in Arctic conditions, not collapse in a drizzle. A narrow or floppy hood is a compromise. The pancake hood on a Gloverall — flat across the shoulders when not in use, stiffened at the front edge when raised — is the right reference point.
Silhouette
A duffle coat should have room to layer. One that fits like a jacket is either too small or miscut; one that's excessively generous looks shapeless. The classic men's duffle falls between mid-thigh and just above the knee. Most men find sizing up one from their usual clothing size gives the right amount of room for a mid-weight knit underneath.
The four Gloverall men's duffle coats
Men's Original Monty Duffle Coat
The Men's Original Monty Duffle Coat is the reference point. Named after Field Marshal Bernard Montgomery, it has been made by Gloverall since 1951, with wooden toggles and rope fastenings and the proportions of the naval original, in the classic full-length silhouette. The exterior is plain and the lining stays out of sight — the cleanest expression of the design.
It is available in a wide range of colours, from Navy and Camel to seasonal shades, with Union Jack-lined editions appearing in selected colours for anyone who wants the provenance made visible. Best for: a first duffle coat, the full-length classic silhouette, maximum warmth, heritage provenance.
Men's Mid-Length Monty Duffle Coat
The full-length Monty is the traditional choice; the Men's Mid-Length Monty Duffle Coat hits a different spot. It's easier to wear in urban settings, less encumbering on public transport, and available in a wide range of colours. The construction and materials are the same standard as the full-length version — it's a silhouette decision, not a quality compromise. Best for: city wearers, buyers who want duffle coat quality in a shorter, more practical cut.
Men's Morris Duffle Coat
Named after founders Harold and Freda Morris, the Men's Morris Duffle Coat is the Monty with more visible character: the same knee-length proportions and the same standard of construction, with a tartan lining — including a Black Royal Stewart option — visible at the hood and cuffs when the coat moves. It has cultural form too: a Morris Duffle Coat appears on the cover of Oasis's Roll With It (1995).
The tartan is a detail rather than a feature — it's there when it's there and invisible when it isn't. The Morris suits buyers who want the Monty's quality with a slightly more defined identity. Best for: buyers who want a recognisable British detail in the full-length cut.
Men's Morris Mid-Length Duffle Coat
The Men's Morris Mid-Length Duffle Coat carries the same tartan lining in the shorter cut — the choice for anyone drawn to the Morris's character who finds the full length impractical day to day. As with the two Montys, nothing about the construction changes with the length. Best for: city wearers who want the tartan detail; buyers who want one coat for commuting and weekends alike.
Men's duffle coat comparison
| Coat | Length | Lining | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Men's Original Monty Duffle Coat | Full length | Plain (Union Jack-lined editions in selected colours) | First duffle, classic silhouette, maximum warmth |
| Men's Mid-Length Monty Duffle Coat | Mid-length | Plain | City wear, shorter cut, same quality |
| Men's Morris Duffle Coat | Full length | Tartan, including Black Royal Stewart | Visible British detail in the classic length |
| Men's Morris Mid-Length Duffle Coat | Mid-length | Tartan | Tartan detail in a practical everyday cut |
All four are part of the Heritage Collection and made in England at our factory outside London.
How a men's duffle coat should fit
A duffle coat should sit comfortably over a mid-weight knit — a roll-neck or heavyweight crew — without pulling across the back or chest. Shoulders should land at your natural shoulder point, not drooping. The hem should fall between mid-thigh and just above the knee for the classic silhouette. Most men find that sizing up one from their usual clothing size provides the right amount of room for layering in a Gloverall — full sizing guidance is on each product page, and the whole range is in the men's duffle coats collection.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best men's duffle coat in the UK?
The right one for you depends on two things: length and lining. All four Gloverall men's duffle coats are built to the same standard — Gloverall has been making coats in England since 1951, and every duffle coat in the Heritage Collection is made in England at our factory outside London — so the choice isn't between quality tiers. If you want the full-length classic with a plain exterior, the Men's Original Monty Duffle Coat; for a shorter city cut, the Men's Mid-Length Monty Duffle Coat; for visible tartan, the Men's Morris Duffle Coat or its mid-length version.
What is the difference between boiled wool and Melton wool in a duffle coat?
Both are dense, tightly milled wool fabrics with natural water-resistance and good insulation — the two materials you want in a duffle coat. Boiled wool is felted through a heat and agitation process that makes it denser and slightly more water-resistant; Melton is a closely woven, smooth-faced wool. Gloverall uses both across its duffle range, and each product page states which fabric that coat uses. The performance difference in everyday wear is marginal; both age well with proper care.
How do I choose between the Original Monty and the Morris Duffle Coat?
The Monty is the cleaner coat — the exterior is plain and the lining stays out of sight. The Morris has visible tartan at the hood and cuffs when the coat opens or moves. If you want a straightforward, versatile duffle coat in a classic colourway, the Monty. If you want the same standard of coat with a recognisable British detail, the Morris. Both are available in full-length and mid-length versions.
Are Gloverall duffle coats good value?
A Gloverall duffle coat is made to be worn, lived in and passed on — worn for decades rather than seasons with correct care. Whether that represents good value depends on the alternative: a lighter wool-blend coat at a lower price typically needs replacing sooner, so the cost per year of wear narrows. The material quality and construction are real rather than a marketing line — but "good value" still depends on your budget and how long you intend to keep the coat.
