Gloverall makes four men's duffle coats in its Heritage range, and every one is made in England at our factory outside London. Choosing between them comes down to two decisions. First, the cloth and hardware: the Monty is boiled wool with wooden toggles and jute rope, while the Morris is a heavier double-faced Melton wool with a tartan lining, buffalo horn toggles and leather loops. Second, the length: full length, at around a metre, or mid-length, at around 85 to 90 cm. That gives four coats: the Men's Original Monty Duffle Coat, the Men's Mid-Length Monty Duffle Coat, the Men's Morris Duffle Coat and the Men's Morris Mid-Length Duffle Coat.
If you already know what you want, the whole range is in our men's duffle coats collection. If not, the table below gives the short answer, and the sections after it explain each coat.
The four men's duffle coats compared
| Coat | Length | Fit | Cloth | Toggles | Choose it if |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Original Monty | Full length, average 102.5 cm | Oversized | Boiled wool (90% wool), 910 g/lm | Wooden toggles, jute rope | You want the classic duffle coat, with the most room to layer |
| Mid-Length Monty | Mid-length, average 87.5 cm | Oversized | Boiled wool (90% wool), 910 g/lm | Wooden toggles, jute rope | You want the Monty in a shorter cut for the city, driving or cycling |
| Morris | Full length, average 98.5 cm | Relaxed | Double-faced Melton, tartan lining (80% wool), 960 g/lm | Buffalo horn, leather loops | You want a heavier, dressier coat with tartan showing at the hood |
| Morris Mid-Length | Mid-length, average 85.5 cm | Relaxed | Double-faced Melton, tartan lining (80% wool), 960 g/lm | Buffalo horn, leather loops | You want the Morris in a shorter cut, with satin-lined sleeves |
Lengths are the average across sizes, taken from our garment measurements. Each product page has the measurement for every size.
Monty or Morris: the real difference
People often assume the Morris is simply a Monty with a tartan lining. It is a different coat.
- Cloth. The Monty is cut from boiled wool, a dense, felted cloth, with a cotton herringbone webbing inside. The Morris is cut from double-faced Melton wool, a closely woven, smooth-faced cloth: plain on the outside, with a tartan lining that shows wherever the cloth turns, at the hood and when the coat is open. The Morris cloth is also heavier, at 960 g per linear metre against the Monty's 910 g.
- Hardware. The Monty has wooden toggles on jute rope, which is the original naval pattern. The Morris has buffalo horn toggles on leather loops, a smarter finish.
- Fit. The Monty is cut oversized, with room for a heavy knit underneath. The Morris is cut relaxed: still easy over a jumper, but a little closer to the body.
- Colour. The Monty comes in solid colours, such as Navy, Camel, Black and Pine Green. The Morris comes in tartan pairings such as Navy Black Watch, Camel Buchanan and Black Royal Stewart.
In short, choose the Monty for the classic boiled wool duffle coat. Choose the Morris for heavier Melton cloth, horn toggles and visible tartan.
Full length or mid-length
The full-length coats fall to around the knee, depending on your height. They are the warmest option and the traditional silhouette. The mid-length coats stop at the upper thigh, at around 85 to 90 cm. They are easier to wear on public transport, in the car and on a bike, and they suit shorter frames better. Nothing else changes with the length: the cloth, toggles and hood are the same.
The four coats in detail
Men's Original Monty Duffle Coat
The Original Monty is the reference point, named after Field Marshal Montgomery. It has an oversized fit, an average length of 102.5 cm, wooden toggles and jute rope fastenings, a fixed shoulder cape, a fixed throat tab and large pockets. The cloth is boiled wool (90% wool), and the inside is finished with cotton herringbone webbing. It is available in nine colours. Best for: a first duffle coat, maximum warmth and room to layer.
Men's Mid-Length Monty Duffle Coat
The Mid-Length Monty uses the same cloth, the same wooden toggles and the same oversized cut, shortened to an average of 87.5 cm. It has a detachable throat tab. It is also the Monty worn on screen in the latest series of Doctor Who. It is available in nine colours, including Burgundy and Grey. Best for: city wear and everyday use.
Men's Morris Duffle Coat
The Morris is named for the Gloverall founding family. It has a relaxed fit, an average length of 98.5 cm, buffalo horn toggles on leather loops, a button-adjusted hood and a shoulder cape. It is cut from double-faced Melton wool with a tartan lining. It is the only Heritage duffle offered up to size 4XL. The Morris in Navy Black Watch is the coat Oasis wore on the cover of their 1995 single Roll With It, and it is the coat worn in BBC's This Town. Best for: a heavier, smarter full-length coat, and larger sizes.
Men's Morris Mid-Length Duffle Coat
The Morris Mid-Length uses the Morris cloth and hardware, cut to an average of 85.5 cm. It adds satin-lined sleeves, so it slides easily over a jacket or knit, and a detachable throat tab. It is available in seven tartan colourways. Best for: the Morris character in a shorter, everyday length.
How a men's duffle coat should fit
A duffle coat should sit comfortably over a mid-weight knit without pulling across the back. The Montys are cut oversized, so most men take their usual size. The Morris coats are cut relaxed, so if you layer heavily, check the chest measurement on the product page before you choose. The model on each product page is 6'1" with a 38" chest and wears a size M. Full measurements for every size are on each product page, and our size guide explains how to measure.
What makes a well-made duffle coat
If you are comparing coats from other makers too, check four things. First, the cloth: a heavy, dense wool, with its weight and composition stated. Second, the toggles: wood or horn, on rope or leather, not plastic. Third, the hood: wide and structured enough to stay up. Fourth, the origin: a plain statement of where the coat was made, not only where it was designed. Our article on which duffle coats are still made in England explains how to read the label.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between the Monty and the Morris duffle coat?
The Monty is a boiled wool coat with wooden toggles, jute rope and an oversized fit. The Morris is a heavier double-faced Melton wool with a tartan lining, buffalo horn toggles, leather loops and a relaxed fit. Both come in full-length and mid-length versions, and all four are made in England.
Which men's duffle coat is the warmest?
The full-length coats are the warmest because they cover more of the leg. The Morris Melton is the heavier of the two, at 960 g/lm against 910 g/lm for the Monty. The Monty's oversized fit gives more room for a thick knit underneath.
How long is the Mid-Length Monty?
The Mid-Length Monty has an average length of 87.5 cm, from 85 cm in XS to 90 cm in 2XL. The full-length Original Monty averages 102.5 cm. The measurement for every size is on the product page.
Does the Morris duffle coat have a tartan lining?
Yes. The Morris is cut from double-faced Melton wool, plain on the outside with a tartan lining that shows at the hood and wherever the coat opens. The Morris Mid-Length also has satin-lined sleeves.
Is the Monty boiled wool or Melton?
The Original Monty and the Mid-Length Monty are boiled wool: wool felted with heat, moisture and movement into a dense cloth that sheds light rain. The Morris and the Morris Mid-Length are double-faced Melton wool: a closely woven, smooth-faced cloth, heavier at 960 g/lm, with a tartan lining.
Are all Gloverall men's duffle coats made in England?
No. The four Heritage duffle coats in this guide are made in England at our factory outside London. The Men's Monty Dufflewool Duffle Coat, from the Dufflewool range, is not. The style-by-style origin record is on our Made in England page.
