Few garments tread the line between function and elegance quite like the trench coat. Today, it’s the final flourish to a well-considered outfit – whether you’re heading into the city or escaping to the country. But its story begins not on the pavements of London, but in the thick of 19th-century military life.
Though often associated with the First World War, the trench coat’s roots trace back to the early 1800s, when outerwear for soldiers began to evolve beyond heavy wool greatcoats. Early waterproof coats made from rubberised fabrics were a step forward, though far from perfect – prone to trapping heat, carrying an odd smell, and even melting in the sun.
Source: Hulton-Deutsch Collection // British soldiers in trench coats, 1914
Source: Naval Historical Center // Lieutenant General Omar Bradley and Major General J. Lawton Collin, 1944
The need for practical, weatherproof outerwear drove innovation in clothmaking. By the mid-19th century, new tightly woven cottons emerged – tough, breathable, and water-resistant. This fabric development laid the foundation for the classic trench silhouette we know today.
From Trenches to Town
The trench coat as we recognise it came into being during the First World War. Officers required something lighter, more mobile, and better suited to unpredictable weather than the bulky wool coats of old. What emerged was a new kind of coat – long enough to protect from rain and mud, short enough for ease of movement, and full of practical design features.
The storm flap at the shoulder helped water run off while adding ventilation. D-rings on the belt were used to attach gear. Raglan sleeves allowed for greater freedom. Everything had a purpose – nothing was purely decorative.
When the war ended, many officers returned home with their trench coats in tow. In time, what began as military uniform evolved into a civilian staple. It found its way into city life and popular culture, quietly shedding its martial edge to become a symbol of elegance, practicality, and understated British style.
Source: A Foreign Affair // Marlene Dietrich, 1948
What Makes a Trench Coat?
A well-cut trench coat is defined by several classic features:
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Double-breasted front with 6–10 buttons
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Wide lapels
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Storm flap on the chest
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Waist belt with buckle or tie
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Adjustable cuffs
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Deep, angled pockets
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Water-resistant cotton
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Raglan sleeves
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Typically knee-length or longer
The beauty of the trench lies in its balance – structured but unrestrictive, smart but not stiff. Whether worn over tailoring or something more casual, it lends the wearer a certain quiet confidence.
The Darcy: Gloverall’s Modern Classic
Inspired by early military design, the Darcy Trench Coat offers a modern interpretation of this timeless style. With clean lines and thoughtful details – angled front pockets, a back vent for ease of movement, and a waist belt to shape the silhouette – it’s a piece built for everyday wear.
Crafted from a cotton-polyester blend with a showerproof finish, it’s ideal for transitional weather. Lightweight, layerable, and quietly elegant, the Darcy is just as at home on a countryside walk as it is navigating the rush hour.
